BasicMicro - Forums

If you've been following my other Thread
You'll know i had plans to create a bot board nano, for the atom nano 18, or atom nano pro 18, if i can get my fingers on one.
Well, Believe it or not, i'm actually making the thing, and so far, so good.
It's about half way complete, i'm waiting on my regulators at this point, and the pinout of the atom nano pro. I want this for the nano pro, more than the original nano. So BMicro guys, send me those pinouts, and information on the possibility of a nano pro 18.

Some pictures of my project so far.




The red thing is a 5v <-> 3.3v TTL converter, so i can simply plug my 3.3v bluetooth adapter into the board. This is for my personal board, the one for my BF won't have this. I just don't want to have to use a breadboard with this thing if it can be avoided.

To do
:Install 3A Regulator for Servo power.
:Install 0.5A or 0.8A regulator for dedicated logic voltage.
:Install a few more jumpers.
:Finish soft wiring the board.
:Get Atom Nano 18, or Atom Nano Pro 18 (if possible)
:Add more smiley stickers to my tools. Kenjj knows what i'm talking about.
Optional) Install my pololu dual micro motor controller onto the board. Why not right? I plan on getting a more powerful one anyways.

Hard wiring is the hard wires soldered between points, like the long row of ground wires.
Soft wiring will be using soft flexible insulated wires to connect the various points around the board, by going over or under other wires.

Keep an eye on this thread, i'll have more pictures as i finish it, and i'll give a full written review off the BBNano18 and the Basic Atom Nano (pro) as soon as i get one.

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Finally finished soldering all the power wires on the botboard nano 18.
Easier said than done. I was forced to use stranded wire, which isn't the best choice for prototyping boards.

Tomorrow i'll wire up all the I/O pins, and the serial pins, I have small guage solid wire for that, so that should be pretty easy.
Plus i don't have to weave over or under other wires to do it, Should all be pretty straight forward.


After i'm done, i'll start on my Bot Board Mini, which is for the 24/28 pin atom pro.
Will be the same size, but much more compact. Painfully compact.. IE it's gonna be tough.
But i have ideas how i can speed up the process.
You'll see.

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Basic Micro Blog
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Will we be graced with photos all along the way? And a schematic or two?
Have a nice project.

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kenjj
http://blog.basicmicro.com/
http://kjennejohn.wordpress.com/

Indeed, The computer i'm on now doesn't support my camera,
The schematic will be done in photoshop.. and i'll be honest, it wont be pretty.
So I'll be uploading the pictures later.

I only have a couple hours of work left, so i could probably finish and upload pictures before anyone checks this thread again.
Soldering iron is warming up now.
Wanna finish it up before i goto work.


Edit:

It's done, with 20 minutes to spare before work.
The pictures are actually missing 1 wire between the button(ground) and the reset pin, i finished it, but i already uploaded the pictures...

These pictures have not been resized, so keep that in mind, these pictures are big... 12MP
I will upload schematics.. or rather wiring directions later, i need to rebuild it all in photoshop, i've made a few changes since since i first drew it out, and completion.
That will probably take an hour or two, and then friday 17th i'll start testing it with the nano 18. or next monday..
I work this weekend.

Heres a link to the PHOTO ALBUM
Please leave comments, feedback, and ideas.
Your feedback sustains me.

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Basic Micro Blog
Universal Robot Controller

If you want (need?) to decrease image sizes, just import the picture into Paint and use the "crop" feature to cut out just the part of the picture you want/need. This will save gobs of space and make uploads and downloads go faster.

One of your images suggests you use rosin core solder. What are you using to clean off flux residue? I myself prefer organic core flux. Cleans off with warm water, followed by some distilled water squirted from a spray bottle. That displaces the tap water and its mineral desposits.
Later.

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kenjj
http://blog.basicmicro.com/
http://kjennejohn.wordpress.com/

91% rubbing alcohol.
Just poor some into a tiny container and shake it up a little.
The spray bottle doesn't sound to bad, but i might buy a syringe with a fine needle so i can high-pressure blast the flux/rosin out.

The board comes with flux on it i noticed.

What i did for this particular board, was poor some alcohol into one of my sweets tins (cleaned of course)
Then i take a soft toothbrush and lightly brush it down. I prefer baby/toddler toothbrushes but i cant find mine ATM so i just use an old, unused toothbrush i usually use for brushing dust out of computer heatsinks (beats using compressed air.)

But once i do this, i have to wait a little while before i can use the board. Usually a few hours will do, if i ever need too, i can put a PC fan near it to speed up the drying.

If my solder points are in the open, i simply use a Q-TIP and my little alcohol pump container.

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Basic Micro Blog
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